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Horst Sauer, Eschendorfer am Lumpen 1655 Silvaner GG 2017
Horst and Sandra Sauer
Silvaner is a variety that has a lot to say, but you have to listen carefully. This wine from Horst Sauer's 'Grosses Gewachs' or grand cru sites is powerful, yet understated ... the ultimate expression of the minerality from this horrifyingly vertiginous single vineyard 'am Lumpen' vineyard.
An impressive and powerful Silvaner; citrus, floral aromas but opens up on the palate with an almost almond bitterness, salty savoury minerality, yet retains a cool core of acid bringing all the elements together. Try with goats' cheese, or seafood chowder.
Grapes for the 'Am Lumpen' wines are carefully selected from the steepest parts of the Escherndorfer Lump vineyard - a directly south-facing precipitous slope with limestone soil and vines that are over 30 years old. This 'Am Lumpen' site was first referenced in 1655, and is Horst Sauer's most premium 'Grosse Lage' site - the classification for the very best German vineyards. The terroir produces long lived wines with an unmistakeable concentration of fruit. The 100% Silvaner grapes are selected in the vineyard, hand-harvested around the start of October, and undergo a gentle pressing before spontaneous fermentation takes place. The wine remains on its fine lees until the summer of the following year.
Weingut Horst Sauer is named after its owner. Both Horst and his daughter Sandra (who joined the winery in 2004) are winemakers at their 37 hectare estate in Franken - situated near Wurzburg (between Frankfurt and Nuremberg). Eight different grape varieties are planted, including Riesling, Silvaner and Müller-Thurgau. Their vineyards are focused around the 'Erste Lagen' (prime) sites of Escherndorfer Lump and Escherndorfer Furstenberg. Escherndorfer Lump is a steep south-facing slope protected from cold north-eastern winds, with a top layer of limestone-rich soil. Escherndorfer Furstenberg is an east-facing vineyard which borders the Lump site to the east and west.
JancisRobinson.com 17.5pts (2017) - Refreshing fragrance of Glacier Mint adorned with a fine note of hay as a token of varietal expression. In my oak phobia I seem to detect a hint of vanilla, a little bitter apricot on the palate pointing in the same direction. It's tastefully done though, particularly because due attention has been paid to the retention of animating acidity. (MS)