Much like the man himself, the engaging Muscadets of Jo Landron brim with life and personality. These finely-etched soil-specific wines represent the antithesis of the bland, neutral, overcropped produce that has sadly become the regional norm. Jo Landron, who learnt to farm the land from his father, took control of the family domaine 1990. His philosophy, driven by the conviction that the essence of great Muscadet is expressed through the minerality of its terroir, has raised the regional bar so high that only the granite-infused bottling from the great Guy Bossard rivals these Muscadets for sheer intensity of flavour and distinctive, electric energy. The unique expression of Landrons cuvees are the result of the diversity of soil types that are found within his vineyards. All are farmed organically using biodynamic practises. Vines are planted densely (8,000 per acre) to naturally control yields, which are kept to a maximum 8 bunches per vine, lower in some cases. Yields stay between 40 and 45 hl/ha incredibly low by Muscadet standards - and naturally no herbicides or pesticides are used. Manual ploughing and hand harvesting are followed by a direct, soft pneumatic, pressing of whole clusters. Only indigenous yeasts are used, and after a cool fermentation lasting 15-20 days, the wines are aged in glass-lined temperature-controlled cement vats, on their lees for 7-12 months. At this point, the wines are bottled using gravity flow. This traditional, minimalist approach preserves the natural freshness and minerality that is a trademark of the very best wines of this genre. Like the Muscadet of fellow visionary (and friend) Guy Bossard, you will notice how much more amplitude and texture, not to mention minerality and softer acidity, these Muscadets possess. As well as being among the finest vignerons of the wider Loire Valley, these are the two avant-garde Nantes producers that are ploughing the front line in a mini Muscadet Renaissance, producing lovely wines that refuse to be pigeon-holed. These are wines of Riesling like freshness and clarity yet with the mineral drive of a Dauvissat Chablis. If you think you know all you need to know about Muscadet, but have not tried these wines, then... time to think again.
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