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Horst Sauer, Eschendorfer am Lumpen Silvaner Auslese 2017
Horst and Sandra Sauer
Auslese or late harvest wines from Franconia are a revelation; rich sweetness, balanced by minerality and tobacco spiced richness which is coaxed from the steepest of vineyards on the Eschendorfer. A remarkable contrast to Riesling Auslese which is backed by acidity, this is more earthy, nutty with vibrant ripples of caramel coated minerality.Â
Delicate orange, brulee aromas which invite you in. Notes of coffee, toffee and caramel are balanced by lively, almost playful marmelade acidity and bitter twist on the finish. Elegant, poised and perfectly balanced.Â Perhaps serve with game, such as venison, or with fresh fruit desserts.
The grapes are sourced from the Escherndorfer Lump vineyard site. This is an 'Erste Lage' or 'first class' vineyard site with a steep, south-facing slope - which protects the vines from cold northern and easterly winds. This location, together with the limestone soil, creates wines with a distinctive fruit character and great longevity.
Weingut Horst Sauer is named after its owner. Both Horst and his daughter Sandra (who joined the winery in 2004) are winemakers at their 37 hectare estate in Franken - situated near Wurzburg (between Frankfurt and Nuremberg). Eight different grape varieties are planted, including Riesling, Silvaner and Müller-Thurgau. Their vineyards are focused around the 'Erste Lagen' (prime) sites of Escherndorfer Lump and Escherndorfer Furstenberg. Escherndorfer Lump is a steep south-facing slope protected from cold north-eastern winds, with a top layer of limestone-rich soil. Escherndorfer Furstenberg is an east-facing vineyard which borders the Lump site to the east and west.
JancisRobinson.com 17.5pts (2017) - Refreshing fragrance of Glacier Mint adorned with a fine note of hay as a token of varietal expression. In my oak phobia I seem to detect a hint of vanilla, a little bitter apricot on the palate pointing in the same direction. It's tastefully done though, particularly because due attention has been paid to the retention of animating acidity. (MS)