There's something rather special about Oregon wine. Perhaps it's the spectacular scenery, the pioneering spirit of its winemakers or the fact that these folks have never seemed particularly interested in following anyone else's rulebook.
Of course, there's the Pinot Noir. Oregon has built an international reputation on it and deservedly so. But focusing exclusively on Pinot is rather like visiting Italy and eating nothing but pasta. Perfectly enjoyable, but you're missing an awful lot.
This October, we're celebrating Oregon Wine Month with our biggest Oregon wine selection yet. Some familiar favourites, some exciting new arrivals and more than a few reasons to venture beyond your usual bottle.
And behind some of these wines are stories every bit as interesting as what's in the glass.
(Morning fog in Willamette Valley, Oregon)
Evening Land: When Burgundy Came Calling
Some vineyards are worth making a fuss about. Seven Springs, in Oregon's Eola-Amity Hills, is one of them.
First planted in 1984, this remarkable vineyard attracted the attention of legendary Burgundian winemaker Dominique Lafon, who became involved with Evening Land in 2007. Bringing some serious Chardonnay credentials across the Atlantic was quite a statement of intent.
(Seven Springs Vineyard in the Eola-Amity Hills)
Today, Evening Land continues to explore the extraordinary potential of this historic vineyard, where cooling Pacific winds and volcanic soils help shape wines of freshness, structure and character. And if the wines don't immediately catch your attention, the labels certainly will.
(Evening Land's artistic bottle labels)
Inspired by Japanese artist Hokusai's famous Thirty-six Views of Mount Fuji, their striking artwork celebrates the natural landscape surrounding Oregon's vineyards. Japanese art meets Oregon wine country. Not the most obvious pairing, perhaps, but a rather beautiful one.
We've welcomed two Evening Land wines this autumn and both deserve your attention.
Evening Land Eola-Amity Hills Chardonnay 2023 brings together ripe pear, quince and stone fruit, with subtle toasted notes and a distinctive flinty character. Beautifully textured, with vibrant acidity and a long, saline finish, it’s an excellent demonstration of just how exciting Oregon Chardonnay can be.
Evening Land Eola-Amity Hills Pinot Noir 2024 offers a different expression of the region. Generous blueberry and pomegranate fruit meet earthy, savoury notes with bright acidity, a supple texture and a lingering floral finish. Elegant, expressive and wonderfully approachable.
Two wines, one fascinating corner of Oregon.
Kelley Fox: A Different Approach to Oregon Chardonnay
Some people have a fairly straightforward career path, but Kelley Fox isn't one of them.
Having studied biochemistry and biophysics, Kelley was heading towards an academic career before deciding that making wine might be a more interesting way to spend her time.
She established Kelley Fox Wines in 2007, having already spent years learning her craft, including working at Oregon’s legendary Eyrie Vineyards.
Her approach is deeply connected to the vineyard and the natural world. Rather than imposing a particular house style, she's interested in allowing individual sites and vintages to express themselves.
And there's a particularly lovely story behind the wine we've chosen.
The snowy owl on the label of her Willamette Valley Chardonnay 2023 was drawn by her daughter, Violet. Kelley selected the illustration for a wine made from young vines at Freedom Hill Vineyard, which will reveal more of their character as they mature.
(Violet's drawing of a Snowy Owl, the perfect label for their Chardonnay 2023)
It's a wonderful example of how much more there can be to a wine label than a clever bit of graphic design.
And the wine itself?
Fermented and matured in stainless steel, this is Chardonnay with plenty of personality. Floral aromas, quince and grapefruit lead into ripe orchard fruit, subtle spice and a beautifully rounded, silky texture. Vibrant acidity brings everything together, carrying through to a long, savoury, mineral finish.
Proof that Chardonnay doesn't need to spend its entire childhood in an oak barrel to become interesting.
And Kelley isn't alone in championing Oregon Chardonnay. From Evening Land to Granville's Basalt Chardonnay, there's plenty of evidence in our October selection that Pinot Noir might have to get used to sharing the limelight.
Your Burgundy collection is perfectly safe. Although your bank manager might appreciate a little diversification
Beyond Oregon Pinot: Discover Something Different
Before the Pinot Noir lovers start writing angry letters, we're certainly not suggesting Oregon should abandon its signature grape.
Quite the opposite.
From Cristom and Sokol Blosser to Granville, Beckham and Evening Land, our October selection demonstrates just how differently Pinot Noir can express itself across Oregon's vineyards.
But while some producers have been perfecting Pinot, others have been looking across the Atlantic for rather different inspiration.
Take Scott Frank, the man behind Bow & Arrow. While much of Oregon has traditionally looked towards Burgundy, Scott found himself drawn to the Loire Valley.
Having worked as a wine buyer and assistant winemaker, he established Bow & Arrow to explore a different side of Oregon, taking inspiration from the Loire's wonderfully refreshing, less conventional wines.
(Bow & Arrow's Wines vineyard, Willamette Valley, Oregon)
His Bow & Arrow Cabernet Franc 2023 is a particularly good example. Sourced from the biodynamically farmed Johan Vineyard, it’s bursting with blueberries, dark plus and fragrant floral notes, alongside hints of rosemary and warming spice. Fresh acidity provides plenty of lift, while the savoury character and structured tannins give it a distinctly Loire-inspired personality.
A welcome reminder that there’s life beyond Pinot Noir in Oregon.
And then there's Big Salt.
Created by husband and wife team John and Ksenija at Ovum, Big Salt White 2024 might just be one of Oregon’s most entertaining white wines.
Riesling, Gewürtztraminer and Muscat form the heart of this wonderfully unconventional blend, with smaller contributions from varieties including Pinot Blanc. Rather than fermenting everything separately and blending afterwards, the grapes are brought together during fermentation.
The result? Something rather extraordinary. Think orange blossom, jasmine and citrus, with ripe peach and a refreshing hint of sea-spray. Wildly aromatic, yet beautifully dry, with vibrant acidity and that distinctive saline finish that gives the wine its name.
It’s the sort of wine that has you mentally ordering oysters before you've finished your first glass.
Clearly, not everyone in Oregon received the Pinot Noir memo.
Come and discover Oregon
Perhaps that's what we enjoy most about Oregon. Its winemakers aren't all trying to make the same wine and there's always someone doing something unexpected.
Throughout October, we're bringing our biggest Oregon wine selection yet to all five Good Wine Shop stores. Expect outstanding Pinot Noir, seriously exciting Chardonnay and a few unexpected discoveries along the way.
We'll have three wines available by the glass, a specially curated three-bottle mixed case and a free walk-in tasting across all five shops.
Whether you're devoted to Pinot Noir, curious about Chardonnay or fancy discovering something completely different, come and explore.
We think Oregon might surprise you.
