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Meo-Camuzet, Clos St Philibert' Hautes Cotes du Nuits Blanc 2011
On the nose, pear, ripe apple and a touch of yeast which brings complexity. The palate is floral.
Once the alcoholic fermentation is complete, aging is both slow and rapid: the wine expresses itself very quickly, but if you want to preserve its richness, you have to take your time bottling. We do not in fact filter (which is very rare for a white) and the wine therefore needs time to sediment. Traditional since the alcoholic fermentation takes place in barrels, with regular stirring. Slow fermentation is encouraged to promote the richness of the wine.
Meo-Camuzet is one of the most celebrated domaines of the Cote d Or, located in the heart of prestigious Vosne-Romanee. The domaine boasts fourteen hectares of land in some of the most spectacular appellations and crus of Burgundy. The vineyard land in Burgundy is highly parceled out among families, which makes it rare for anyone to have enough vines to be able to bottle one grand cru, let alone the six that the Meos have. The early beginnings of the domaine left it in the hands of metayeurs, or share-croppers. The last twenty years have brought substantial changes that have fostered a new chapter for the Meo family. Founder etienne Camuzet was not only a passionate vigneron, but a full-time politician, and spent most of his time in Paris, representing the Cote d Or. In order to keep his land in use, he offered it to capable share-croppers to farm. By the time his daughter had inherited the estate, she found herself with no successors, so the estate was passed down to her closest relative, Jean Meo. Jean was also deeply involved in national politics he served as a member of Charles DeGaulles cabinet. Consequently, he, too, had to direct the domaine from afar. In the early 1980s, as many of the metayeurs were starting to retire, it became clear that the domaine needed a new direction. Jeans son, Jean-Nicolas had also spent most of his life in Paris. By 1985, it was his turn to take the helm. In lieu of continuing to rent out their highly-pedigreed vineyards, he made the bold decision to slowly start reclaiming the land for the domaines own bottlings. He called upon the resident expert, one of Burgundys greatest winemakers of all time, Henri Jayer, for guidance. For three years, he mentored Jean-Nicolas during the transition and finally decided to retire in 1988. Though Jayer passed away in 2006, his legacy endures to this day. Jean-Nicolas has since directed the cellar and sales. He has put the vineyards in the capable hands of Christian Faurois, son of one of domaines metayeurs, who has dedicated himself to these vineyards since 1973. Domaine Meo-Camuzet bottles four astounding grands crus (Richebourg, Clos de Vougeot, Corton Clos Rognet, and echezeaux, with two more Cortons on the way), ten premier crus (from the communes of Vosne-Romanee, Nuits-St-Georges, Chambolle-Musigny, and Fixin), several village wines, one Bourgogne Rouge, and only one white. Jean-Nicolas aims for balance and purity of fruit, which he accomplishes with terrific success. Though delicate and fine, even in their youth, the paradoxical concentration and intensity of these wines make them ideal for long cellar aging. These rare, stunning achievements are a Burgundy lovers dream.
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