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Francois Mikulski, Bourgogne Aligote 2019
The nose is wonderfully opulent full of very ripe, dense fruit, concentrated apple puree, ripe quince, soft peach skins, traces of pineapple pastries. Exposed to air, there is the appearance of a vegetal component of curly and flat-leaf parsley, then watercress and radish leaves. Full-bodied palate, very fleshy, apple again, orange peel, coarsely crushed black peppercorns, more intense spices including cardamom and clove, zesty marmalade with a little green plum. Not a wine for an aperitif, or a seafood platter really, but perfect for a hearty plaice dish at least, with celery puree, or with cod pie; pair preferably with hot food.
Francois Mikulski has cultivated Burgundy Aligote vineyards as tenant farmers since 1992. They cover an area of 1.5 hectares. The first was planted in 1929 and the second in 1948 by Joseph Boillot, François Mikulski’s grandfather. Their vines are 100% Aligoté. They are cultivated using non-certified organic methods. Annual production: around 9,000 bottles. The subsoil consists of fine alluvial river sediment, which is common on the lower part of the slope. The extraction is limited, and the wine is aged in tanks on lees. It is bottled in July to preserve the fruit.
François Mikulski's small winery, which is only about 9 hectares in size, has only existed since 1992, but it quickly made a name for itself worldwide thanks to its outstanding wines. Specialist journalists and wine connoisseurs like to compare his wines with those of the neighboring cult winemaker Coche-Dury - with the difference that they are significantly cheaper than them. The wines appear to be rather "modern" in style without actually being so. The use of new wood is only 20 to 30 percent. Cultivation takes place in a natural economy. The main focus is on preserving the natural balance and biodiversity of the soil. François Mikulski is a free spirit who is well aware of the traditions of his region, but who, when he founded his winery, didn't have to follow in someone else's footsteps, but was able to determine his own style. The "white wine specialist" Mikulski has also become a real insider tip for red wines.
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