Domaine Duband, Vosne Romanee 2018

Grapes are picked by hand and crushed only by foot. Since 2008 David Duband has incorporated a high proportion of whole clusters during fermentation. He now admits that, over the 30 vintages since he started, his style has changed a lot. David concedes it was hard at first not to be swayed by the fashions of the time: cold maceration, high levels of extraction and an unfettered use of new oak were all the rage in Burgundy during the 1990s. These days he has an unwavering belief in what he feels is the “best” approach to making red Burgundy; the result of a personal epiphany after tasting a selection of older Dujac and Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, two producers that incorporate a high portion of whole-bunch in their ferments.

David varies the quantity of whole-bunch he adds to the blend depending on the appellation, being careful to balance the fruit intensity on the palate. For his Côte de Nuits cuvées he uses 50% whole-bunch, 60% for his Premiers Crus and 90% for his Grands Crus. His Côte de Nuits and village wines are well-integrated after just two years in bottle, while the higher concentration of fruit and whole-bunch flavour in his Grands Crus mean they are best approached after around eight years. The wines of the estate are aged in oak barrels, 30% of which are renewed each year.