Domaine des Lambrays, Morey St Denis 2017

This is the first solo vintage for Boris Champy and the start of a new era, as Bernard Arnault, having made his first visit to the domaine since its purchase by LVMH, has set new targets of excellence. A new cuverie is promised and a full vineyard survey has just been completed, with other luxury-brand accoutrements also promised. Boris noted that 2017 is one of the earliest at the domaine, along with 2003, 2011 and 2015, starting here on 3rd September. It’s a good, general vintage,  he feels, with lowish acidity, comparable  to 2006

Domaine des Lambrays was established in 1363 yet it was only in 1981 that this estate was finally promoted to Grand Cru. The estate was purchased in 1996 by the Freune family and since then dramatic changes have taken place, leading to an upsurge in quality. At 8.8 hectares, this is the largest Grand Cru parcel in Burgundy under one proprietor. Winemaker Thierry Brouin has been in charge since 1979. The vineyards are run on more or less organic lines, with no chemical anti-rot sprays, and ploughing of the soil by horse. In the cellar, he likes to use the majority of the stems, favours punching down over pumping over, and prefers to restrain the amount of new oak – around 50% for the grand cru. The produce of young vines is downgraded to Morey St Denis 1er cru where it joins the fruit of tiny holdings of La Riotte and Le Village. The village Morey comes from La Riotte, Clos Solon, Les Larreys and especially La Bidaude which lies just above the Clos des Lambrays.  Domaine des Lambrays produces wines which possess balance, power and finesse and which fully live up to their Grand Cru status.