oral notes typical of a cuvee based around Pinot Meunier. There is a good depth of red fruits with floral and saline notes on the palate and it has a supple texture and a refreshing finish.
This is a subtle amalgam of the domaine's holdings. Based on the 2013 vintage (60%) and 2012 (40%), the wine was initially aged 50% in cuve and 50% in oak (recent foudres and futs from three to 15yo) and 60% of the malos were completed. It was given 22 months bottle age and disgorged with 6.5g/l dosage in April 2016.
Aurelien Laherte is part of a dynamic, young generation of vignerons making waves in Champagne and producing a fine array of terroir-driven Champagnes using a natural approach to viticulture and winemaking. Along with his high school friend Raphael Bereche another star in the region - Aurelien founded the Terres et Vins group of Champenois producers in 2009. This group taps some of Champagne's more progressive and like-minded producers, including Agrapart and Marie-Courtin, among others. The Laherte family has a long history in the region. Founded in 1889 by Jean-Baptiste Laherte, the estate was originally made up of vines primarily in the village of Chavot. Fourth generation vigneron Michel Laherte expanded the family estate which then covered about five hectares. With his wife Cecile, the two young vignerons modernized the press and tanks, but soon realized that too much modernity such as the use of herbicides and pesticides would prevent full terroir expression in the wines. They began working the soils, gently vinifying the juices, and remaining humble and patient as the wines developed. This philosophy is the foundation of the estate and has endured through the generations. Today, under the direction of Aurelien Laherte who took over in 2005, the estate has become one of the most progressive and dynamic 'rising stars' in the appellation. Like many of Champagne's top practitioners, the estate has begun to produce a series of tiny production, single-vineyard/single vintage cuvees (around 3000 bottles ea) from some of their most unique and expressive Biodynamically-farmed parcels. These wines are all vinified in used Burgundy barrels, without malolactic fermentations, and are bottled without fining and filtration. They are then finished with little or no dosage so as to not mask the individuality of the underlying terroirs. But the mainstay of the Laherte range are the Brut, Extra Brut and Rose, which are called Ultradition (see descriptions below). Aurelien has also initiated a cuvee of super racy and mineral-driven Blanc de Blanc done in Brut Nature from chalky soils in and around Chavot.The Laherte vineyards are situated largely in the Coteaux Sud D'Epernay, an interesting sub-region sandwiched between the Cotes des Blancs and the Vallee de la Marne, with pockets of soils that greatly resemble these two fine and geologically diverse regions. The vineyards themselves total 10.5 hectares (over 75 separate parcels),seven of which are farmed biodynamically and certified organic, with the rest farmed either 'uncertified organic' or at least sustainably. Great lengths are taken to ensure each vine fully expresses itself and the underlying terroir. A team of ten,including aunts, uncles, and cousins, works throughout the year (in accordance with the lunar calendar) to employ techniques such as plant infusions to improve the vine's natural defense system, and high foliage to encourage photosynthesis and thus, balanced maturity.
Wine Advocate 92pts - Tasted April 2018 - Based on the 2015 vintage and 40% of reserve wines, the NV Extra Brut Ultradition is an assemblage of 60% Pinot Meunier, 30% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Noir from eight villages and terroirs in the Coteaux Sud d'Epernay and the Marne Valley. Vinified in cuvees, pieces and foudres and aged on the lees for six months (with malolactic partly done), this is a deep, pure and complex cuvee. Full-bodied, firm and very mineral yet fine, fresh and pure on the salty palate, the finish reveals charming richness and intense fruit but keeps the firm and chalky expression of this impressive Extra Brut. I'd keep this cuvee for another two or three years, but I suppose it can also age for a decade. Tasted in August 2018 from Lot L.14 that was disgorged in November 2017.