THE GOOD WINE SHOP

Lugana is a little-known region to the south of Lake Garda whose whites are made from a local variant of the ubiquitous Trebbiano (known as Ugni Blanc in France) - a grape described by Oz Clarke as being so boring as to make temperance appealing. But Ca dei Frati are sensationally good winemakers and this gorgeous, creamy, peach-scented wine of great concentration and balance is clearly the exception that proves the Trebbiano rule. It also wins our vote for being so beautifully packaged.