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Ca' Dei Frati, Lugana 2020
Igino Dal Cero
Lugana is a little-known region to the south of Lake Garda whose whites are made from a local variant of the ubiquitous Trebbiano (known as Ugni Blanc in France) - a grape described by Oz Clarke as being so boring as to make temperance appealing. But Ca dei Frati are sensationally good winemakers and this gorgeous, creamy, peach-scented wine of great concentration and balance is clearly the exception that proves the Trebbiano rule. It also wins our vote for being so beautifully packaged.
The must was fermented in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks to maximise its fresh fruit character. The wine then remained on lees in stainless-steel tanks for six months before spending two months ageing in bottle before release.
The Dal Cero family has transformed their Ca' dei Frati property, situated on the southern shores of Lake Garda, into a model Italian estate over the past two decades. Back in 1987, they had 12 hectares of vineyard but now, following the purchase of a large chunk of prime vineyard in 2008, they have over 160 hectares. This increase in quantity has been matched by an increase in quality and today they remain the best producer in Lugana.