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Philippe Pacalet, Ladoix Rouge 2018
Mid cherry red. Wonderfully inviting dark-red fruit, with the perfume of Chambolle and the more savoury side of Gevrey and a light stone-dusty note that is very attractive. Firm, upright tannic structure with lovely open fruit on the mid palate. Refined, youthful and delicious if quite light on the mid palate. Good value in the context of Burgundy JancisRobinson.com, 16.5
The grapes for this wine come from 50 year old parcels not far from the hill of Corton. 100% farmed to organic principles but like all of Philippe’s wines uncertified. Spontaneous whole bunch fermentation and aged for 12 months in old oak barriques. Unfiltered and no SO2 added. This is only the second vintage of the wine.
Philippe Pacalet- a man without vineyards but a great vision and drive for terroir. Ok, the no vineyard thing is of course only partly true. He does not own any vineyards and but rather leases some of the most exciting sites in Burgundy. This is due to the stratospheric land prices in Burgundy and leasing the land makes it more economical while also being able to maintain control and standards on the growing process. A more accurate term may be flying winemaker but considering all his wines are made in Beaujolais, the Rhone and Burgundy he is mainly using the train and car. Philippe’s approach to winemaking has been shaped early on. Like his uncle, the famous Beaujolais grower Marcel Lappiere, he has been inspired by Jules Chauvet- one of the founding fathers of “natural wine”. Philippe was so inspired by Monsieur Chauvet that he completed a apprenticeship with him, an experience that influenced him greatly to this day.
Philippe is making wine in the Cote d’Or since 2001 from a small converted cellar that once belonged to Hubert de Montille. All his parcels are farmed and harvested manually by hand. In the cellar he prefers extended whole bunch maceration, spontaneous ferments and minimal influence of oak, using almost entirely old Troncais barrels. He does not add any SO2 in the entire winemaking process either. His approach is simple: Make good, honest wine and do not disturb the natural process.
Ladoix, like Pernard Vergelesses (of the neighbouring communes) are considered to be the next big thing. Based in the northern part of the Cote de Beaune between Aloxe Corton and the beginning of the Cotes de Nuits this area lends itself to Chardonnay and Pinot Noir though reds make up tow thirds of vineyard plantings.
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