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Francois Mikulski, Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrieres 2008
Rarely do the Genevrieres succumb to the imperialism of the Charmes, but that is the case in this vintage. More earthly and less dreamlike, more sensual and less lingering, Genevrieres 2015 tastes like a vintage from the first growths of Meursault. Instead: An elegant nose, white fruits with predominantly pear, delicate notes of citrus, clementine perhaps, flowers, honey, nougat, fresh butter, icing sugar, praline, Isigny caramel and salted caramel, turmeric and barley sugar. Sensual and silky on the palate, poached fruit with candied fruit, the soil and fruit intertwining.
Francois Mikulski's father was Lieutenant Mieczyslaw Mikulski who escaped from occupied Poland in 1939, fleeing to England and joining the Resistance troops of the Free Polish Forces. There he met his future wife, a Burgundian woman working on an English army base, and moved to Brussels where Francois was born and raised. Luckily for us and the world of wine, Francois spent his formative summers in Burgundy, where he fell in love with the agrarian lifestyle and determined that he would one day make wine himself. He inherited his first plots of Meursault in 1992 from his late uncle, Pierre Boillot. Since that time, he has relentlessly pursued his authenticity, purity and elegance through acute attention to biological balance in the vineyard and terroir minded levage practices in the cellar. After meticulous sorting in the vineyards the grapes are de-stemmed and lightly pressed. Natural yeasts are used in the fermentation after which the wines undergo a levage 10-12 months. Francois typically restrains his new oak use to about 20%, believing that excessive wood masks full expression of the terroir.
Wine Advocate 91pts (2015) - The king of the cellar, Mikulski's 2015 Meursault 1er Cru Genevri�res offers up notes of pears, hazelnut, cut flowers and oatmeal. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, glossy and elegant, with a succulent line of acid, good length and depth, and more concentration, intensity and precision than the domaine's Meursault Charmes.