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Francois Mikulski, Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes 2015
The 2005 and 2009 vintages were briefly mentioned in the short introduction, when those former vines thrived. And so it is logical that they repeat the feat in 2015, a vintage that shares many similarities with its two elder siblings. A refined and deep nose, great purity of the fruit, immediately reminding you of Batard, or even Montrachet. Density and concentration but always remarkably fresh, there is something for everyone, flowers, poached fruits, candied fruit, citrus and.. guava, grape, pear, milky and refined like a light Chantilly perfumed with violet. The substance is really difficult to move in the mouth as it is disproportionate, no heaviness, no trace of excessive alcoholic load, the fruit is always at balance with the structure. Then the finish hits, like a terrific punch to the sternum, the longevity is unreal and the balances are perfect during the good minute and a half that the feeling lasts. You may think you are dreaming and yet, this is all real.
Francois Mikulski's father was Lieutenant Mieczyslaw Mikulski who escaped from occupied Poland in 1939, fleeing to England and joining the Resistance troops of the Free Polish Forces. There he met his future wife, a Burgundian woman working on an English army base, and moved to Brussels where Francois was born and raised. Luckily for us and the world of wine, Francois spent his formative summers in Burgundy, where he fell in love with the agrarian lifestyle and determined that he would one day make wine himself. He inherited his first plots of Meursault in 1992 from his late uncle, Pierre Boillot. Since that time, he has relentlessly pursued his authenticity, purity and elegance through acute attention to biological balance in the vineyard and terroir minded levage practices in the cellar. After meticulous sorting in the vineyards the grapes are de-stemmed and lightly pressed. Natural yeasts are used in the fermentation after which the wines undergo a levage 10-12 months. Francois typically restrains his new oak use to about 20%, believing that excessive wood masks full expression of the terroir.
JancisRobinson.com 17.5pts (2015) - Very bright apple fruit, smashing acidic frame and a great deal of punch on the mid palate. Lots of green citrus � if anything, this is less fleshy and mouth-filling than the typical Meursault � but delicious all the same, and very lengthy. (RH)