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Francois Mikulski, Meursault 1er Cru Les Charmes 2013
One thought to have arrived at an extreme depth, but here we are brought even to the abyss of the planet, into the fathomless pits of the Marianne islands. The nose is indeed abyssal and the minerality is intimidating. White fruits, dried fruits, hazelnut, pine nuts, grilled almond (and not because of barrel aging), white and yellow flowers, nougat. Palette of fruit, grape, from white to yellow peach, no heaviness in this wine, only strength, the finish is indescribable, all I can say is that the invasion is complete and that I can measure it objectively, at least two minutes of persistence. What is a great wine if not this? I should give 100, in that I give the maximum that you would give if you were knocked over by these old Charmes vines.
Francois Mikulski's father was Lieutenant Mieczyslaw Mikulski who escaped from occupied Poland in 1939, fleeing to England and joining the Resistance troops of the Free Polish Forces. There he met his future wife, a Burgundian woman working on an English army base, and moved to Brussels where Francois was born and raised. Luckily for us and the world of wine, Francois spent his formative summers in Burgundy, where he fell in love with the agrarian lifestyle and determined that he would one day make wine himself. He inherited his first plots of Meursault in 1992 from his late uncle, Pierre Boillot. Since that time, he has relentlessly pursued his authenticity, purity and elegance through acute attention to biological balance in the vineyard and terroir minded levage practices in the cellar. After meticulous sorting in the vineyards the grapes are de-stemmed and lightly pressed. Natural yeasts are used in the fermentation after which the wines undergo a levage 10-12 months. Francois typically restrains his new oak use to about 20%, believing that excessive wood masks full expression of the terroir.
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