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Horst Sauer, Eschendorfer am Lumpen 1655 Riesling GG 2016
Horst and Sandra Sauer
This is very cool, very authoritative, very click-click Riesling with a core of lime, peach, hay and maybe a suggestion of fresh nuts around the edges, and it’s undoubtedly smart and fine and you’re happy… then comes this incredible ‘swell’, this sense of barely restrained energy, this 'Shove’! It moves the wine to a different place and seems to both increase its scale and slice you in two at the same time. It’s surely the voice of the vineyard. The bright acidity will stand up to Thai or Indian cuisine, or match with roast pork and crackling.
Grapes for the 'Am Lumpen' wines are carefully selected from the steepest parts of the Escherndorfer Lump vineyard - a directly south-facing precipitous slope with vines that are over 30 years old. This 'Am Lumpen' site was first referenced in 1655, and is Horst Sauer's most premium 'Grosse Lage' site - the classification for the very best German vineyards. The terroir produces long lived wines with an unmistakeable concentration of fruit.
Weingut Horst Sauer is named after its owner. Both Horst and his daughter Sandra (who joined the winery in 2004) are winemakers at their 37 hectare estate in Franken - situated near Wurzburg (between Frankfurt and Nuremberg). Eight different grape varieties are planted, including Riesling, Silvaner and Müller-Thurgau. Their vineyards are focused around the 'Erste Lagen' (prime) sites of Escherndorfer Lump and Escherndorfer Furstenberg. Escherndorfer Lump is a steep south-facing slope protected from cold north-eastern winds, with a top layer of limestone-rich soil. Escherndorfer Furstenberg is an east-facing vineyard which borders the Lump site to the east and west.
JancisRobinson.com 16.5pts (2016) - Deeper coloured than most. Very big and concentrated. Not going for the delicacy of Riesling! A bit astringent at the moment. Full frontal stuff. Needs a bit of time and, definitely, food. Very chewy still.